Bidar Inspired Jewels? Coming soon...

Marvellous! You cannot help going gaga about this rare art of Bidar, Karnataka. Spellbound by its intricate patterns, our jewellery designers too explored this territory and soon, we hear PNG Jewellers is launching a special collection called - Bidar Inspired Jewels. Note that, although their collection is inspired by the art that dates back to 14th century CE, each design is contemporary to the core. Plus, instead of oxidising the metal surface, here they have used black meena to lend black colour to the jewels. 

But before Bidar Inspired Jewels is available for you to shop, let us know the long and the short of it. 

Originated in ancient Persia, the art came to India with Mughals and later, it evolved further by intermingling with local styles here. From the confines of Bidar, the art form also travelled to different parts of India. With that, Hyderabad is another vibrant centre, after Bidar. It is also practised in Purnia in Bihar, Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh, Aurangabad in Maharashtra and Murshidabad in West Bengal. Although designs are mostly range from creepers, flowers and sometimes, human figures, you can tell the Bidriwork of each region. For instance, Gharki - a less sophisticated variant of the bidriwork is Bihar’s speciality while Zar Buland, in which the ornamental designs are raised above the surface, is unique to Lucknow.

Manufactured from an alloy of copper and zinc (in the ratio 1:16) by casting, Bidriware undergoes an eight-stage process that includes: moulding, smoothening by file, designing by chisels, engraving by chisel and hammer, pure silver inlaying, smoothening again, buffing and finally oxidising by soil and ammonium chloride. FYI, it is the zinc content that gives the alloy a deep black colour. 

First, a mould is formed using soil in which castor oil and resin is mixed. The molten metal is then poured into it to obtain a cast piece which is later smoothened by filing. The casting is now coated with a strong solution of copper sulphate to obtain a temporary black coating over which designs are etched with the help of a metal stylus. After securing it in a vise, craftsmen engrave patterns over the freehand etching with the help of small chisels.

Fine wire or flattened strips of pure silver are then carefully hammered into these grooves. After that, it is filed, buffed and smoothed to get rid of the temporary black coating. This results in rendering the silver inlay hardly distinguishable from the gleaming metallic surface which is now all silvery white. The Bidriware is now ready for the final blackening process. 

For this process, a special variety of soil which is available only in the unlit portions of the Bidar fort is used. It is mixed with ammonium chloride and water to make paste which is then rubbed onto a heated bidri surface. The paste selectively darkens the body while it has no effect on the silver inlay. The paste is then rinsed off to expose a shiny silver design against the black surface. In the final touch up stage, oil is applied to the finished product to deepen the matt coating. The finished product appears black with brilliant silver inlay.  

The art so stunning cannot remain unexplored. Any artiste would be tempted to incorporate it in his/ her creation. No wonder, jewellery designers too are going big on it.

Author: Deepa Mishra

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