Lesser known facts about filigree art

You cannot turn away from filigree jewellery without examining it closely. That’s the charm of this ancient art form that has travelled all the way from the western Asia to our country. Originated in Mesopotamia and Egypt, it popularised across the Asian continent during 2500 BC. Especially craftsmen belonging to Midyat city in Mardin province of upper Mesopotamia, carved out a niche for themselves for developing a filigree patterns called Telkari, using gold and silver wires.

But as soon as this art form landed here in India, its popularity saw a new high. Already obsessed with jewellery, Indians zealously embraced its arabesque patterns. They not only started creating their own versions but with time, mastered it well enough to not just find takers across India but also become one of the prominent exporters of filigree jewellery in the world. Famous for their Cuttack Tarkashi from Orissa, they also spread their wings to other regions with West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh’s Karimnagar being other traditional centres. In the west, mainly in Gujarat, Filigree goes by another name called Ras-Rava holding gold wires (taar) laid on gold plates, small gold beads (rava) and twisted wire in its design.

A high degree of similarity in Indian and Greek filigree patterns - the same kind of designs, the same techniques involved in the making, gives away the common artistic influence in both the countries. This art form also gained prominence in Italian and French metalwork from 1660 to the late 19th century. All in all, filigree has set a unique footprint around the world. There is no one who is not fascinated by its intricacies. Whether a westerner, a European or an Asian, it’s love by all and rightly so.

Before I begin talking about what goes into making filigree jewellery, a grand salute the karigars who roll out stunning designs year after year. A lot goes into creating each pattern that is unique and yet so gorgeous. Apart from a unique aesthetic sense, it’s a job that requires patience. The lace crafted in precious metals, which makes it look like a mesh of diaphanous threads woven together, tells the story of a fine eye for detail. Unlike other jewellery making process, it doesn’t involve engraving, carving or moulding but creating a piece by joining metal wires as thin as hair in bits and giving it a shape.

They start by melting the ingots of silver or gold on medium heat on a small stove and then, pour it into a mould to make rods. After that, the rods are inserted into manual wire drawing machines that have tiny apertures through which fine quality wires are achieved. Thanks to silver’s ductile and malleable properties, only second to gold, one-kilometre-long silver wire can be made out of one gram of pure silver.

The next phase of the filigree jewellery making involves drafting the design on a piece of paper. The patterns may range from inscriptions on temples, statues of gods and goddesses and the surrounding flora and fauna. The wire made for the outline is placed on the design sheet, taking the shape of the drawing. In order to achieve a zigzag effect on the design, the hair thin wires are crumpled with the help of a machine. After that, the craftsman solders the fine wire to the outlining frame. 

Just so you know, more than 90 types of wire designs, including creepers and jaals, spirals and curls, are used to fill the outlines. In order to fuse the joints firmly, soldered pieces are heated again on a stove. In the last stage, the created pieces are either polished lacquered for shinier look. During the whole process, craftsmen take utmost care in protecting the delicate thin strands of silver from breaking. However, with supreme precision and craftsmanship, the outlines appear like beautiful intricately-woven gauzy patterns. 

Apart from jewellery, decorative animals, inscriptions for temples, replicas for temples and idols of gods and goddesses too are created using this ancient art form. Some conventional items like vermilion containers, spoon and bowl for first meal of a new born and betel nut boxes are also crafted using silver filigree. Now-a-days, a wide variety of filigree jewellery, predominantly consisting of brooches, hairpins, and earrings, are on top of their game. 

Come, lose yourself in the enchanting mesh of filigree. 

Author: Deepa Mishra

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